Frequently asked questions and the advantages and disadvantages of different types of electric bikes.

What is an electric bicycle?

Also known as Battery Bike, Electric Bike, Pedelec

In its most basic form, it is a bicycle with a motor, a battery, and a controller to regulate speed and power.

Frequent questions

How fast will it go?

The law says that an electric bike should not be able to run more than 25 km / h (15 mph) under power.

The bike will go faster than that (going downhill or if you pedal really hard!) But not with power.

The average leisure cyclist travels 8-12 mph, so 15 mph is pretty fast!

Do I have to wear a helmet?

Not if you don’t want to.

Do I need taxes or insurance?

No, as long as the bicycle complies with the regulations for electric bikes, it is classified as a bicycle and can be used on cycle paths, etc.

Will you go up the hill without me pedaling?

Electric bikes are designed to help the rider and by their very nature will not climb the steepest hills without the rider’s help.

Do I have to pedal?

Yes, electric bikes are primarily designed for pedaling assistance, but they can make it a lot easier. They take stress off the joints, allowing the rider to exercise without trying too hard or getting hot and sweaty.

How do I choose the right one for me?

To decide which electric bike is best for you, first think about how you will use it.

Frame first – Do you need to bend? Do you need a trike for stability? What size of wheels do you prefer?

Distance – Will you use it for many short trips or will you use it regularly for longer distances?

Assistance level – How much help do you want the bicycle to give you? Do you want maximum assistance with minimum effort? Want to do most of the work but with assistance on hills? Do you want variable assistance to be able to select the level of assistance for each trip?

When you know how you are going to use your electric bike, it is much easier to choose the right one for you.

Pedal assistant – what does it mean?

Exactly what it sounds like, by turning the pedals, the controller detects movement and starts the motor to assist. When you stop pedaling, the motor stops.

Types of pedal assist

Rotation sensor– this detects that the pedals are turning and starts the motor at a preset speed. This type of system may be available with a single speed or selectable levels.

Advantage – You do not need to press down hard on the pedals for maximum assistance. Selectable level versions are very versatile.

Disadvantages – The single-level version runs at full speed all the time.

Torque sensor – this also detects the force with which you are pressing the pedals and varies the level of assistance accordingly.

that is, if you press gently, you only give a little help (slow), press harder, and help more (faster). This system can also have selectable power levels.

Advantage – Slow and accelerate intuitively. Use battery economically for greater distance per charge.

Disadvantages – For maximum assistance, all pressure must be exerted on the pedals.

Twist-grip throttle – Some motors are not powered by the pedals, but by a twist grip throttle that must be turned while pedaling and held in position.

Advantage – Variable power assist

Disadvantages – Keep the throttle turned all the time, even when signaling.

Combination, Pedal Assist and Accelerator

Some pedal assist bikes also have a twist grip. This can allow the rider to take a “breather” without having to stop. On a torque sensing bike, this allows the rider to select ‘extra’ power, which can be useful when climbing a hill.

Easy start and launch wizard

Both are terms for a device that is used to help you get started with your electric bike. Often times the hardest part of cycling is the initial push to get going, especially if you’ve stopped on an incline or in traffic when you want to get up to speed fairly quickly.

Twist grip – variable power, turn more for additional assistance.

Advantage – instant assistance

Disadvantages – turning too fast can make the bike unstable (especially front hub motors)

Button – up to 4 mph (6 kph)

Advantage – Good stable start, no “drama”, can be used to help push the bike.

Disadvantages – just one speed.

Battery types

Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) – When electric bikes first became popular, they were hampered by battery technology and equipped with SLA batteries.

Advantage – Low cost

Disadvantages – heavy (typically 15 kg), limited range (10 to 15 miles), short life (300 cycles)

Nickel-metal hydride (NiMh) and Nickel Cadmium (NiCd): lighter than SLA and longer distance (15-20 miles).

Advantage – Cost (average price)

Disadvantages – Memory effect (must be fully discharged regularly) reduced performance in cold climates.

Lithium ion (Li-ion): even lighter (36v 3.5 kg) with high energy density and no memory effect. There are several types of lithium-ion batteries, the main ones

Lithium polymer (Li-Po)

Lithium Manganese (Illuminated manuscript)

Both types of battery offer a good power-to-weight ratio.

Advantage – light weight, good distance (30-40 miles), good life (1000 cycles)

Disadvantages – Higher cost

Lithium Ferrous Phosphate (LiFePo4): has good electrical and thermal stability

Advantage – extended life (2000 cycles)

Disadvantages – lower energy density giving slightly shorter distances (25 – 30 miles)

Battery charging – How long does it take?

If you have chosen an electric bike with a distance suitable for your needs, an overnight charge may be the best solution.

Standard charger – 6 – 8 hours

Advantage – Battery friendly, suitable for low power situations

Disadvantages – cannot be recharged during lunch!

Fast charger – 23 hours

Advantage – Fast!

Disadvantages – can reduce battery life

Charge from 12V – not generally available as a direct charger, but can be done via an inverter.

Battery charge cost

Of course, this will depend on how much you pay for your electricity, but usually between 5 and 20 cents.

Battery replacement cost

It may seem very expensive (£ 300- £ 500) but when you consider the distance you can go on an electric bike, it is actually very reasonable. Even if you only do 20 miles per charge per thousand charges, that gives you 20,000 miles. For a £ 300 battery that’s equivalent to 1.5 pence per mile.

Battery position

Under the seat – in front of the rear wheel, this has been a popular position for heavier batteries.

Advantage – keeps the center of gravity low

Disadvantages – increases the wheelbase, which makes some bikes too long for a standard bike rack.

Rack mounted – Popular position for lithium ion batteries.

Advantage – The wheelbase can be standard. The battery can be “disguised” with saddlebags.

Disadvantages – slightly higher center of gravity.

Water bottle – some manufacturers ‘hide’ the battery here

Advantage – discreet and small

Disadvantages – small battery that provides lower mileage.

Within – New lightweight bikes are being developed with the battery inside the frame.

Advantage – discreet, safe.

Disadvantages – Very high cost, more difficult to replace.

Engine types

Hub motors – mounted in the center of the front or rear wheel.

Front hub

Advantage – then you can put hub gears at the rear

Disadvantages – can be a little scary in slippery conditions.

Rear hub

Advantage – very stable power delivery

Disadvantages – not compatible with hub gears

Brushed motor

Advantage – can be used for regenerative braking. Easy. Trustworthy.

Disadvantages – may cause drag when pedaling with the engine off.

Brushless motor

Advantage – Causes very little resistance when driving with the machine turned off. Cigarette lighter. Compact. Efficient.

Disadvantages – cannot be used for regenerative braking.

Crank motor – drive the bike through the normal shifting system

Advantage – efficient, change gears with the bike.

Disadvantages – expensive, requires a specialized frame, watch out for cheap crank motors.

Displays and meters

Battery meter – Ideally, choose an electric bike that has a battery indicator on the handlebar. This can be in the form of an LED display or a series of lights that turn off when the battery charge is depleted.

On battery meter – Some batteries have a built-in meter, which is useful if you have more than one battery and cannot remember which one you have charged.

Power level – shows the selected level of assistance

Brakes – these can be any of the “normal” types of bikes, blocks or discs. The important thing is that specially designed electric bikes have an additional cable from the brake lever, this is from a kill switch that shuts off the engine when braking.

Lights – These can be powered in various ways, directly from the main battery, separate battery for individual lights, dynamo. Note that if you run on the main battery and it dies, you will have no lights.

Driving test – Whenever possible, different models have a different feeling when driving, try several to see which one suits you.

The law – In the UK, the minimum age to ride an electric bike is 14 years old. The bicycle must weigh less than 40 kg (60 kg for a tricycle). Be restricted to 15 mph (25 km / h). Maximum continuous output power 200/250 W.

Electric bikes are used more – Many people take a bicycle with the intention of going to work to save on parking or fuel, or as a way to get in shape, but the bicycle ends up in the garage. Statistics show that people who buy an electric bike are more likely to use it and go out more often.