How to open or start a pool in spring

Starting or opening a pool is quite simple. But it does require a bit of work and an extra pair of hands. Honestly, it’s best to start a week or two before opening to not only get the best results, but also to take some of the “last minute” stress out.

It doesn’t matter if you have an above ground pool or an inground pool, the basic job is the same or similar. Follow these simple steps with details and tips:

Remove all leaves, dirt, and debris. of the winter cover before removing it. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen people let all their winter mess go right into the pool! Talk about extra work. I have seen really clean “winterized” water turn black with “tea” and winter cover debris. Spend a couple of half hours removing excess and accumulated leaves from the top of the cover. Remember, it’s not just last fall’s leaves; it’s spring pollen, tree “helicopters” and pine needles too.

Remove all ice and winter expansion plugs. (Gizzmos). You cannot turn on the pump and filter system if the water does not flow from the pool to the filter and vice versa! Be sure to replace the respective directional returns (eyeballs), suction screens (usually used on bottom suction connections), circulator connections, etc. If you are using standard stationary eyeballs, remember to aim the water flow DOWN toward the bottom of the pool to optimize circulation. For even better circulation, consider replacing your standard directional returns with “the circulator.”

Bring the water level to normal operating level. If the water on top of the cover is relatively clean and free of algae, use that water to fill the pool. It’s free! It might be a bit dirty but that’s ok, it will be dealt with with the rest of the pool. At this point, it’s a very good idea to add an algaecide to the water or a natural pool enzyme to begin cleaning the water and preparing it for the initial shock. If you are adding fresh tap water to complete the pool, add a good metal and mineral stain and scale control product to prevent sudden staining of metals, especially iron or copper, when the pool is first shock treated. .

Carefully remove the winter cover. Clean it, fold it and put it away. When cleaning, use a good cleaner that is made specifically for the deck material. A good chemical cleaning of the winter cover will extend the life of the cover by removing dirt and grime from the fabric (you wouldn’t keep dirty clothes in the closet for next season, would you?)

Connect the filter system. Properly connect the correct hoses or pipes to the correct valves or fittings on the pump and filter. Even I made this mistake: the correct hose is connected to the wrong filter and 2 weeks later the pool is still not clean! This is the easiest way to remember: basket to basket (skimmer basket to pump basket) and hole to hole (outlet – “to the pool” – hole in the filter valve or tank body for the return opening on the pool wall). Be sure to properly lubricate all o-rings on multiport or stop valves with a good silicone lubricant. Not only will it give the joint more life, but it will also help it seal more easily. Do not overtighten the clamps on the hoses above the ground; tightening too often will “kink” the hose and allow air to leak. REMEMBER: replace ALL drain plugs in pump, filter tank, and heater (if equipped).

When starting the pump For the first time, be sure to “prime” the pump with water. Do not dry start it, you can not only damage the pump, but put additional stress and stress on the entire system. If your pump is below the water level, as in most above ground pools, priming is probably not necessary because the water naturally “falls” into the pump (gravity feed). If the pump and filter system is more than 3 feet above the water level, priming is a must. Please note that it may take several minutes for the system to “capture” and start up.

SPECIAL NOTE: It is VERY normal for a LOT of bubbles to come out of the return fittings when first turned on. Even for up to 24 to 36 hours, some bubbles will remain in the plumbing system while it returns to normal operation.

SPECIAL TIPS: To make starting the filter easier, open the “air bleed” valve at the top of the filter tank when the filter starts. You will hear a large “whoosh” of air as it exits the filter. When the water gushes out, replace or close that valve. If your filter does not have a manual air bleeder, temporarily remove the pressure gauge to get the same results.

Cleaning and vacuuming the pool of all the dirt and debris. Get all the excess stuff out of the pool before adding a hit and getting the algaecide going, especially if the water is relatively clear and clean. The less stuff in the water, the more effective the initial flush will be.

Clean siding or tile line with a good quality pool surface cleaner such as Off the Wall Surface Cleaner. DO NOT use household cleaners as they can affect the pH and add phosphates to the water which will contribute to algae growth later. This is where most of the winter dross has left its mark. Clean it now while it’s still “soft” and easy to remove as opposed to when it’s sunbaked and harder to clean. Prevent this line of scum (biofilm) from re-forming with regular cleaning or by using AquaFinesse pool discs.

Add your initial doses of shock & algaecide. Now you can add the chemicals! When starting out, don’t skimp. Carry out a good “strong” discharge and an adequate dosage of algaecide in the opening. In the short and long term, you will save a lot more money if you do it the right way. Follow the dosages below.

Allow opening or start-up chemicals to circulate for 24 to 36 hours before performing any testing or water balancing. Why wait? 2 reasons:

1. Shock & algaecide additions will change the water chemistry and water balance. That little bit of time will allow the levels to stabilize for a more accurate reading.

2. Chemicals already in the pool water can settle to the bottom. This is especially true of cyanuric acid, generally known as a pool conditioner or stabilizer. If the water isn’t allowed to circulate and stir what’s at the bottom, you’ll end up adding a stabilizer that most likely doesn’t need any addition. This is a great way to save money. By the way, NEVER add conditioner or stabilizer unless the pool water needs it and only if the test shows a level of 20 ppm or less. Cyanuric acid or stabilizer levels should not exceed 60 ppm. Higher levels are simply wasteful and do not provide anything for the water balance.

Install ladders and deck equipment. Be sure to securely tighten the anchor bolts, springboard, and slide anchors (if equipped). Check that the bolts or accessories are in good condition. Replace worn or corroded nuts and bolts for your safety.

Filter 24 hours before bringing Opening water sample for testing and analysis. Adjust pH, Total Alkalinity, and Calcium Hardness as needed.

Chemically clean the filter. with Kleen It or Strip Kwik Filter Cleaner after 2 weeks to remove filtered winter stuff. Chemical filter cleaning every 8 weeks extends the life of the filter media and promotes longer filter cycles.

NEVER DRAIN your pool. The liner will shrink, voiding the warranty and could damage your pool. In gunite, plaster or even fiberglass pools, removing water from the pool could cause the pool structure to “float” and cause serious damage to the structure. Always check with your local builder for specific instructions.

Starting Chemical Doses in chlorine, bromine, ionizer, salt-chlorine pools. Shock treatment must be thorough to break down residual chloramines (combined chlorines) from winterizing. If the chloramines are not addressed now, a persistent chlorine demand problem (the inability to maintain a solid level of chlorine or bromine) will develop.

Chlorine shock: Unstabilized Cal-Hypo is the preferred product to use in an initial spring crash. It goes in, oxidizes and then comes out (gives off gases). Use at the rate of 3 to 5 pounds per 5,000 gallons for best results. DO NOT use a chlorine-free shock with initial start-up. Liquid chlorine bleach is fine, but very weak (about 11%) compared to Cal-Hypo (about 60%).

Initial algaecide: Don’t skimp on the algaecide! Always use an algaecide that has at least 30% active ingredients. Be careful when using algaecides with copper as an active ingredient; improper use can cause stains on pool surfaces. Gallon jugs of algaecide typically contain less than 10% active ingredients and are a virtual waste of money. Follow label directions for a STARTING dose, typically 1-2 quarts per 10,000 gallons.

After adding the initial shock and algaecide, be sure to run the filter for 48 to 72 hours continuously. DO NOT backwash the filter during this time. Let the filter and chemicals do the work.

Final and continuing steps: balance the water (pH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness). The use of additives such as borates and natural enzyme products will enhance any chemical pool care system you use. Be sure to shock the pool and add algaecide every 2 weeks to remove swimmer debris that cannot be filtered out and to keep algae in check.

Follow the 5 keys to pool care. It is easy.